Vietnam is a major player in the global coffee market, ranking second only to Brazil in production. However, unlike Brazil, Vietnam's coffee industry is predominantly focused on Robusta coffee, which makes up about 97% of its output, with only a small percentage (around 3%) attributed to Arabica. Most of Vietnam's coffee is cultivated in the Central Highlands, particularly in Lam Dong province, where the unique red basalt soil and high elevation create ideal growing conditions.
Historical Context
Coffee was introduced to Vietnam in 1857 by French colonists, but it took time for the crop to establish itself as a major agricultural product. Initially, coffee faced challenges competing with other crops like lowland rice, which were easier to grow and more lucrative. By the 1920s, the French expanded coffee cultivation into the highlands, primarily in Dak Lak Province, paving the way for large-scale production.
The coffee industry experienced significant disruption during the Vietnam War, particularly in the Buôn Ma Thuột region, which was central to production. The aftermath of the war led to collectivisation of agriculture, limiting private enterprise and causing a decline in production. It wasn’t until the Đổi mới reforms in 1986 that the industry began to thrive again, allowing private ownership and leading to substantial growth.
Micro-Climates and Varietals
The coffee-growing regions in Buôn Mê Thuột have been classified into various micro-climates, supporting a diverse range of coffee varieties. In addition to the dominant Robusta, several types of Arabica are cultivated, including Catimor and Chari (Excelsa). This diversity, combined with the region's specific climate conditions, contributes to the unique flavour profiles found in Vietnamese coffee.
The Arabica Story
Despite being the second-largest coffee producer in the world, Vietnam's Arabica coffee accounts for a mere fraction of total production. Coffee farmers in Vietnam have faced cycles of volatility since the 1980s, affected by fluctuating global prices. While importing countries may pay steady prices, farmers often experience instability, making it a challenging landscape for producers.
Brewing Traditions
Vietnamese coffee is typically brewed using a single-cup filter known as a phin. This traditional method allows the coffee to brew slowly, enhancing its rich flavours. It is common to serve coffee at the table while it is still brewing, creating an engaging experience.
Sweetened condensed milk is a staple in Vietnamese coffee culture, largely due to its availability and ease of storage in a tropical climate. This sweetened addition has become the preferred choice, resulting in popular variations like cà phê sữa đá (iced coffee with condensed milk) and cà phê đá (iced black coffee).
Conclusion
Vietnam's coffee industry, characterised by its dominance in Robusta production and a growing focus on Arabica, has a rich history shaped by cultural, social, and economic factors. The unique growing conditions in the Central Highlands, along with traditional brewing methods, create a distinctive coffee experience that reflects the country's agricultural heritage.