Java, the original coffee-growing region, has a storied past that dates back to the early Dutch colonial era. Coffee was first introduced to Batavia (modern-day Jakarta) and subsequently planted in the areas of Bogor and Bandung. The Arabica coffee plant made its journey to Indonesia from India in 1696, and Java coffee gained legendary status worldwide, with Mocha and Java beans commanding prices up to 10 to 15 times higher than Brazilian coffees on broker lists from the 1920s.
The Unique Characteristics of Java Coffee
What sets Java apart is its wet-processing method, which results in a relatively clean cup without the earthy or muddy flavours often found in lower-grade wet-hulled Indonesian coffees, like those from Sumatra.
East Java Government Estates: A Focus on Volume
In the world of coffee, Java is often synonymous with East Java and its large estates. The flavour profile of these East Java coffees tends to have moderate-to-low acidity, which can sometimes make them taste a bit flat. This lack of complexity often relegates basic Java coffees to the “blender” category rather than highlighting them as exceptional single-origin brews.
The standard coffees from this region, known as "Government Estate" Java, come from four historic farms (Kayumas, Blawan, Djampit, Pancoer) that date back to the Dutch colonial period. While these estates are in the process of privatisation, they have historically produced consistent yet rarely outstanding coffees. Located near the Ijen volcanic complex, these large farms account for about 85% of the coffee grown in East Java.
The Altitude Advantage
The altitudes suitable for coffee production range from 3,000 to 6,000 feet, with most coffee grown in the plateau region around 4,500 feet. Djampit and Blawan are the largest estates, with Blawan spanning an impressive 2,268 hectares. In the past, these estates primarily shipped large lots, focusing on volume and trading more on the name “Java” than on cup quality.
However, the past 15 years have seen a shift, with many exceptional coffees emerging from the Sundanese region of West Java.
Java Coffee Varieties
Among the coffee varieties, you can find an old cultivar known as Java Typica. However, many farmers grow catimor-derived varieties like Kartika and Ateng. There's also an older Typica variant called “USDA,” named for the developers who endorsed it. Notably, I’ve discovered old Typica plants in western Java that could be descendants of the original seed stock brought from Yemen, with a stop in India.
Currently, Ateng and some Timor varieties, which are natural Arabica-Robusta crosses, dominate the landscape. While Ateng can be decent in wet-hulled coffees, it presents challenges when processed as wet coffee, often resulting in a woody or drying aftertaste.
Focus on Quality in West Java
We primarily concentrate our efforts in Java Sunda (West Java), an area often overlooked as a source of quality coffee. However, motivated farmers are cultivating smaller-scale, quality-oriented coffee. The remaining challenges include training farmers in quality methods, emphasising the importance of picking only ripe cherries, and improving processing techniques.
Many small growers also cultivate market crops like peppers, onions, and beans for immediate cash flow, treating coffee as an annual source of extra income. Unfortunately, this can lead to neglect of coffee trees, including insufficient pruning and organic mulching to maintain soil health.
The inter-planting of coffee with other crops poses a significant issue, as coffee should ideally be grown alongside nitrogen-fixing legumes. Competing crops can deplete nutrients and water, affecting coffee yield. While coffee is often grown organically in Indonesia, the market crops are usually treated with pesticides, which raises concerns about contamination.
Java remains a cornerstone of Indonesian coffee, rich in history and evolving in quality. As the focus shifts towards better processing methods and sustainability, the future looks bright for Java coffees.