Papua New Guinea (PNG) is often mistakenly grouped with Indonesian coffee origins, but it boasts distinct characteristics in geography, culture, and production methods. The eastern half of the island, where PNG is located, has a rich coffee heritage that sets it apart from its western counterpart, Irian Jaya, which produces only a small quantity of coffee.
Geographic and Cultural Distinctions
PNG is home to numerous ethnic groups with diverse languages and customs, unlike the Bahasa-speaking populations in Indonesia. This cultural variety creates unique challenges in organizing coffee farmers and fostering cooperation among them. The mountainous terrain, which includes the Eastern Highlands and Western Highlands, features rich coffee-growing regions centered around towns like Kainantu and Mount Hagen.
Coffee farming in PNG is often characterized by small-holder farms known as "coffee gardens." Many farmers tend to their coffee plants alongside other crops, reflecting a casual approach to coffee cultivation. The fertile land allows for easy growth of various crops, diminishing the urgency to rely on coffee as a primary cash crop.
Economic Context
The economy of PNG is complicated by the abundance of natural resources such as gold, oil, and natural gas. With significant investments from multinational corporations, local economies can be overshadowed by these large-scale ventures. This has led to a high cost of living; for example, hotel prices in the capital, Port Moresby, can range from $600 to $800 per night, while prices for comparable accommodations in Indonesia are much lower.
The economic landscape impacts coffee production as well. Many small farmers sell their coffee cherries to wet mills, while larger plantations, like those previously owned by the Carpenter Family, continue to play a significant role. Brands like Kimel represent both large-scale farms and local growers.
Coffee Varietals and Processing Challenges
Papua New Guinea's coffee varietals include Jamaican Blue Mountain Typica, Arusha Typica from Tanzania, Bourbon, and various hybrids, all contributing to its unique flavour profile. However, the potential of PNG coffee is often hindered by poor processing and milling practices.
For instance, many small mills mix unripe and ripe cherries, compromising quality. The use of high temperatures to speed up drying in a major dry mill in Goroka resulted in a smoky flavour in the green coffee. While some mills employ traditional methods, such as the Kenyan two-stage fermentation process, inadequate drying practices and exposure to rain can also impact the quality.
The Path Forward
Despite its challenges, PNG coffee has immense potential. When cultivated and processed correctly, it can yield exceptional flavours. Improving processing techniques and encouraging cooperation among farmers can enhance the quality and reputation of PNG coffee on the global stage. As the market continues to evolve, PNG has the opportunity to carve out its identity, separate from the broader Indonesian coffee narrative, and showcase its unique offerings to coffee enthusiasts around the world.