Coffee was introduced to Jamaica in 1728 by Sir Nicholas Lawes, the island's governor, who brought plants from Martinique. The climate and terrain proved ideal for coffee cultivation, and within a decade, Jamaica was exporting significant quantities—83,000 pounds in 1737 alone. Initially, the industry thrived in the foothills of St. Andrew before expanding into the renowned Blue Mountains.
Over the years, Jamaica's coffee industry experienced fluctuations due to various factors, including competition from other crops and livestock. By 1891, efforts to revive the industry included sending experts to teach farmers about better cultivation and processing methods. Despite these initiatives, quality improvements were slow, and Jamaican coffee often faced rejection in key markets like Canada.
In 1944, the establishment of a Central Coffee Clearing House marked a turning point, requiring all coffee for export to be cleaned and graded. This led to enhancements in quality, culminating in the formation of the Coffee Industry Board in 1950 to oversee and maintain export standards.
Coffee Characteristics
Jamaican coffee, particularly the famed Jamaica Blue Mountain (JBM), is known for its mild, balanced profile. While some may cherish its smooth flavour, coffee aficionados often view it as lacking the complexity found in more robust coffees from regions like Kenya or Guatemala.
Post-harvest processing is critical to achieving a high-quality cup. Ideally, ripe cherries should be picked and processed efficiently, then dried and rested in stable conditions. However, humidity fluctuations in Jamaica can challenge the integrity of the green beans, often resulting in a cup that doesn't fully realize its potential. Additionally, there have been issues with authenticity; many coffees labelled as JBM have been blended with lower-quality beans or sourced from regions outside the designated area.
Roasting Tips
For those looking to roast Jamaican coffee, specific techniques can enhance the flavour. Given the lower density of Jamaican beans compared to higher-elevation coffees, it's advisable to start with a lower initial roasting temperature, around 350°F. This gentle approach allows the beans to develop properly without being scorched. The total roast time should ideally exceed 11 minutes to achieve a balanced profile.
Current Landscape
Despite its storied past, Jamaica's coffee industry faces challenges, including issues with consistency and quality control. Prominent mills such as Wallenford and Mavis Bank are key players in the processing of JBM, though concerns about milling practices persist. Mavis Bank has shown improvements in quality preparation, while Wallenford’s practices at sea level have raised questions.
While Jamaica's coffee may not claim the title of "world’s best," it remains an important part of the coffee narrative, celebrated for its history and the unique experiences it evokes. For those who appreciate coffee for its cultural significance rather than just its taste, Jamaican coffee offers a rich, albeit mild, flavour tied to the island's legacy.