Puerto Rico’s coffee journey began in 1736, but it was not until the 19th century that it truly flourished. Initially overshadowed by sugar cane, coffee became a significant crop thanks to Corsican immigrants who migrated to the island in search of fertile land. They settled in the highlands, particularly around the town of Yauco, and began cultivating coffee in the mountainous regions. By the 1860s, these farmers had established a robust coffee industry, contributing to Puerto Rico's identity as a coffee-producing nation.
However, the coffee industry faced severe setbacks due to natural disasters. Two devastating hurricanes in 1898 wreaked havoc, destroying much of the coffee crop and forcing farmers to wait two years for recovery. During this period, U.S. interest in Puerto Rico grew, focusing largely on its sugar production.
Current Challenges
Despite its rich history, Puerto Rico's coffee industry is struggling today. Factors such as low altitude, a lack of labour, and the impacts of climate change have combined to make high-quality coffee production increasingly difficult.
- Altitude and Quality: Puerto Rico’s coffee is often grown at lower elevations compared to other renowned coffee-producing regions. This can lead to a milder flavour profile, generally described as "island coffee," characterized by soft, balanced, and mild flavours. While approachable, these coffees can lack the complexity found in higher-elevation counterparts.
- Labor Issues: The labour-intensive nature of coffee harvesting and processing requires skilled workers to hand-pick and sort cherries. With access to labour dwindling, the quality of picked cherries can suffer, leading to a higher incidence of defects in the final product.
- Post-Harvest Processing: The quality of Puerto Rican coffee is heavily influenced by post-harvest practices. Humidity can lead to premature aging, while improper selection of cherries—either unripe or overripe—can introduce undesirable flavours.
- Market Dynamics: The cost of producing coffee in Puerto Rico is higher due to its status as a U.S. territory, yet the quality does not always justify the price. As a result, many roasters find it challenging to offer Puerto Rican coffee that meets their quality standards.
Flavour Profile
When Puerto Rican coffee is at its best, it embodies the typical "island profile" of soft, balanced flavours without excessive acidity. However, when conditions are less than ideal, the coffee can suffer from premature aging and off-flavours, making it hard to find consistently high-quality offerings.
Looking Ahead
The future of Puerto Rican coffee remains uncertain. While there is a desire to support local production, the challenges are substantial. Current efforts to improve quality may eventually pay off, but for now, many roasters find themselves without reliable sources from the island.
The rich tradition of coffee cultivation in Puerto Rico deserves recognition, but the realities of today’s market and environmental challenges make it a tough origin to champion at this moment.